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Traveling through Europe with a dog — Part 2
France with dogs: Europe's toughest law — and the most dog-loving nation.
Few countries embody such a contradiction as France: it denies entry to some dogs with draconian severity—yet at the same time, dogs are more commonly found lying under bistro tables here than anywhere else. Add to that the heat of the south, the question of the pool, and a cool north that hardly anyone talks about.
By Pia von Ramin · Reading time approx. 11 minutes.
St-Tropez — where dogs are a natural part of the aperitif
There are two Frances when you travel with a dog. One welcomes you on a café terrace as if your dog were a paying guest—a bowl of water arrives unbidden, no one bats an eye. The other is found in legal texts that are among the strictest in Europe and completely bar some dogs from entering the country.
Both are true. And you need to know both before you set off. Let's start with the unpleasant part—it gets better after that.
Chapter 1 — The Law
Two categories — and why they are so tough
France's dog law dates from 1999, was tightened again in 2008, and divides "dangerous" dogs into two categories. Unlike in Denmark, it is not simply a list of prohibited dogs, but rather two levels with different consequences.
Category 1 — the attack dogs. Pitbull types, Mastiff/Boerbull types and Tosa without A recognized FCI pedigree. Entry and even transit are strictly prohibited for these dogs. And this is not a mere formality: Importation is considered a criminal offense; the dog can be confiscated and euthanized, and the owner faces fines of up to [amount missing]. 15.000 € and up to six months in prison. It's enough that a dog offends one of these types. similar.
Category 2 — guard and protection dogs. The same races with A pedigree, plus the Rottweiler (even without papers) and similar dogs. Entry is theoretically permitted, but practically impossible: muzzles and leashes are mandatory in all public areas, dogs must be handled by adults, proof of liability insurance is required, registration with the local municipality is necessary—and for stays of three months or longer, a French dog handling course plus a behavioral assessment by a French veterinarian is required. This is unrealistic for a holiday.
Dobermans, Great Danes, and Staffordshire Bull Terriers with papers are not affected—they don't fall into any of the categories. However, a muzzle is generally recommended for large dogs in public.
"In France, it's often not your dog's character that matters, but its appearance — and its pedigree."
It sounds threatening, and for the affected breeds it is. But for the vast majority of travelers, it's a non-issue: Greyhounds, a Weimaraner, the typical family dogs—none of them have anything to do with those categories. However, here's a practical tip: If your dog even remotely resembles a breed listed on the dangerous dog list, bring a breed certificate from your veterinarian, ideally in French or English. This will save you from arguments that nobody wants to have at the start of your holiday.
Chapter 2 — Arrival
Car, train or plane — how the dog gets to France
The basics are simple: Your dog needs an EU pet passport, a microchip, and a valid rabies vaccination—at least 21 days must pass between the initial vaccination and entry. You can bring up to five dogs. The rest depends on the mode of transport, and each has its own rules.
By car. The classic scenario, especially when traveling south. There's no specific French law regarding dog restraint in cars, but the Code de la route requires that the dog not obstruct the driver—and physics demands more anyway (more on this in the chapter about the south). So secure him, whether with a car seat, crate, or harness. Two things to keep in mind for long journeys: French motorways are toll roads, and the generous toll booths... aires de repos The dog can be thoroughly aired out. Plan breaks — and in summer heat, the car ban applies without exception.
By train. SNCF makes it easy and affordable: Within France, dogs travel on the TGV INOUI and Intercités trains for a flat rate of around seven to ten euros per trip—regardless of whether they're small in a bag or large on a leash. Small dogs in a closed bag (max. 45 × 30 × 25 cm) don't need a muzzle. All others must be leashed and muzzled for the entire journey, even if they aren't considered "dangerous," and must stay close to you. Up to two animals per person are allowed, and the dog must be registered when booking. Important for travelers from Germany: Cross-border tickets are slightly more expensive (around ten or twenty euros), and dogs, except for assistance dogs, are not permitted on Eurostar trains.
By plane. The obvious choice is Air France: In the cabin, they allow dogs and cats up to eight kilograms, including their carrier, in a soft carrier measuring no more than 46 x 28 x 24 cm that fits under the seat in front—the dog stays there for the entire flight. Larger animals (up to 75 kg) travel in the climate-controlled cargo hold, although brachycephalic breeds are not permitted. You must register at least 24 hours in advance; the cabin costs approximately 70 to 200 euros, depending on the route. And here's where the law from Chapter 1 comes into play again: For the cargo hold, Air France requires explicit confirmation that your dog does not fall under Category 1 or 2.
But Air France isn't the only airline flying to France — Lufthansa, Eurowings, and others also serve these routes. And here's a closer look: The permitted bag dimensions vary from airline to airline. Air France's baggage allowance of 46 × 28 × 24 cm is noticeably smaller than the usual guideline of around 55 × 40 × 23 cm — a bag that fits on one airline might not be allowed on another. So, don't wait until you're packing to check your airline's exact dimensions; check them before you buy your bag and ticket. In short: A wind chime will fit under the seat if the bag fits the airline's size requirements. A Weimaraner will have to travel below — or just in the car.
In front of the bistro — dogs are a common sight here
Chapter 3 — Savoir-vivre
How the French are with dogs
And now for the other side of France. Few nations live with dogs as naturally as this one. In brasseries, cafés, and many restaurants, dogs lie under the table without anyone even asking.Anyone coming from Germany, where the question "Are dogs allowed in?" is a reflex, experiences a pleasant sense of relaxation here: The dog is part of life, not its exception.
"In France, the dog lies under the table — not in the trunk."
And yet, there's a surprising second half to the story: this openness ends abruptly at certain doors. Museums, theaters, cinemas, many shops, markets, and hospitals are often dog-free zones. In large national parks like the Mercantour or the Écrins, dogs are completely prohibited, while in others—such as the Cévennes—they are only allowed on a leash to protect wildlife. So, the opposite of arbitrariness: dogs are welcome where people eat and live, and outside, where nature is protected, clear boundaries apply.
In the village — everywhere a bowl of water, everywhere a place in the shade
The most important reflex is therefore: Keep your eyes open, pay attention to the signs. —and if in doubt, politely ask about the usual practice. This is particularly relevant at the beach: During the summer months, dogs are prohibited on many beaches; this is decided by local council decree and varies from place to place. A glance at the sign at the entrance can save you trouble.
Hotel and campsite
When it comes to overnight stays, France once again shows its welcoming side. Dogs are usually welcome in restaurants and hotels, often without any fuss—some hotels charge a small surcharge, but a quick call beforehand is still worthwhile. And France is a camping nation: the vast majority of campsites welcome four-legged friends. There are three things you should know: dogs must be kept on a leash at all times on the campsite, a current vaccination certificate is often required at check-in, and dogs of categories 1 and 2 are almost always prohibited. Some large campsites limit the number of dogs or ban them entirely in July and August—the smaller and more natural the campsite, the more relaxed it is. And one unwritten rule everywhere: never leave your dog alone in the tent or mobile home.
At midday, the shade belongs to the locals — just like with the locals.
Chapter 4 — The South in Summer
Heat and chlorine
The south in the height of summer is beautiful, but merciless for dogs. A dog can barely sweat—only a little through its paw pads—and cools itself almost exclusively by panting. A body temperature of around 40°C becomes life-threatening, and in the south of France in July, it's easier than you might think to reach that temperature.
Coping with the heat
The solution is the same one that the people of southern France have lived by for centuries: life takes place in the morning and evening; the midday hours belong to the shade. Shift your walks to the early morning and late evening, and avoid the time between approximately noon and 4 p.m. Check the asphalt with the back of your hand. If you can't stand him for even five seconds, he'll burn your paws. Always keep him in the shade, always keep him in water. And never, ever leave the dog alone in the car: at 25°C outside, the temperature inside the car climbs to over 40°C within minutes.
Greyhounds, with their thin skin and fine fur, overheat quickly but cool down just as fast; their light skin is also at risk of sunburn. A Weimaraner wants to run—it's precisely this breed that needs to be slowed down in the heat, not encouraged.And a topic that many underestimate: In the Mediterranean region, the sand fly transmits the Leishmaniasis. Talk to your vet about protection before your trip — spot-ons, collar or vaccination.
The pool question: is chlorine a problem?
At the pool — cooling off is fine, but with a few rules.
The good news first: A properly adjusted, chlorinated pool is generally safe for occasional swimming—after all, children are allowed in it. The problem isn't the chlorine itself, but rather its improper use. Three rules are all it takes.
First: don't let them drink. Small sips while swimming are harmless. If a dog drinks larger amounts of chlorinated water, vomiting and diarrhea can occur, and in extreme cases, water intoxication. Therefore, always provide fresh drinking water.
Secondly: shower after every bath. Chlorine dries out skin and fur—especially in thin-skinned greyhounds and dogs with sensitive skin. Clear water from a garden hose is sufficient.
Thirdly: secure the exit. A pool has no edge. A dog that can't find the steps can drown—this is especially true for Italian Greyhounds, which have little body fat, cool down quickly, and aren't natural swimmers. Ensure there's a clearly visible entry and exit point, never leave your dog unattended near water, and fence off the pool when no one is present.
"An overheated dog should not be put into cold water — but cooled down slowly."
And the most important point connecting heat and pools: Never let an overheated dog jump headfirst into a cold pool. Just like with humans, the sudden temperature drop can lead to circulatory collapse—especially risky for older dogs or those with heart problems. First, slowly wet their paws and legs, let their body acclimatize, then let them into the water.
The Atlantic coast — cool, vast, and surprisingly dog-friendly
Chapter 5 — The Atlantic
The cool north — the real dog coast
Postcard-perfect France is the sweltering south—the Côte d'Azur, lavender fields, and aperitifs in the evening sun. But for many dogs, true paradise lies where hardly anyone captures it on camera: on the Atlantic coast. Brittany and Normandy offer mild temperatures instead of oppressive heat, miles of beaches at low tide, fewer sandflies—and therefore less risk of leishmaniasis. Those who shy away from a southern July don't have to stay home; they can simply head northwest.
Beach rules on the Atlantic coast
The basic rule is similar to that in the south, only a bit friendlier: Dogs are allowed on guarded beaches. Mostly prohibited during peak season The window typically falls between June 15th and September 15th, in some places from June 1st to September 30th. This is determined individually by each municipality by decree (arrêté municipal), so it's worth checking the sign at the entrance.
The crucial point: Many municipalities allow dogs even in summer. early and late — roughly before 9 or 10 a.m. and after 7 or 8 p.m. These are the best times to visit the beach anyway: cooler, less crowded, and you often have the sand all to yourself. Outside of peak season, roughly from October to May, most beaches are open — but officially, dogs must be kept on a leash, and violations can result in a fine. In the dunes and on the promenades, dogs must be kept on a leash year-round to protect the landscape.
Away from designated swimming areas, you'll often find no signs at all on natural beaches—dogs are usually tacitly tolerated there. There are even year-round dog beaches, for example in Kerlouan in Finistère. As a general rule: the more touristy the place, the longer and stricter the season. Take your cue from the locals or simply ask the owners of your holiday home—they know the local customs better than any regulation.
At low tide, the beach becomes an endless playground.
The tides — the most important tip
What distinguishes the Atlantic from the Mediterranean is the tide. The tidal range is enormous: at low tide, the beach is exposed for kilometers, at high tide it simply disappears. Therefore, plan your trip accordingly. Tide calendar — not just for swimming, but for safety. A rapidly rising tide can cut a dog off from a sandbank, and in bays like that of Mont-Saint-Michel, the currents and quicksand are life-threatening. Those who keep an eye on the tides are rewarded with the most expansive beach experience France has to offer.
France is both: the country with one of the strictest dog laws in Europe and the country that welcomes dogs to the table with the utmost ease. Those who know the regulations, take the heat seriously, and read the signs will find a travel destination that doesn't just tolerate dogs, it celebrates them. And if all else fails, there's always the north.
Next episode — Part 3: Italy
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Bags & AIRBAGS → Car seats → Magazine → | Pia von Ramin is founder of 4legs.de and lives in Hamburg. She regularly travels with her dogs through Europe — from the south of France to the Danish North Sea coast. |